Crate Training Schedule For 8 Week Old Puppy: What Is The Best Way To Crate Train Your Puppy?


When the environment around them becomes too loud or overwhelming, crate training your puppy takes advantage of the dog’s natural instincts to seek out a comfortable, quiet, and safe place. It’s a useful tool for keeping dogs from chewing on home items or during housetraining. Crates are also a secure method of transporting your dog in the car.

Creating a sense of caution

A crate isn’t a magical cure for canine misbehavior. A dog can feel trapped and frustrated if it is used incorrectly. Crates will not be an option for some dogs.

  • While crates can be used to control a child’s behavior, they should never be used to punish them. When guests come over, for example, putting your dog in a crate with an interactive toy to avoid food or jumping mishaps is more effective than waiting for misbehavior and then putting your dog away. Using treats to entice your dog into the crate until they love going in on their own will ensure a positive association with it regardless of the timing.
  • Don’t keep your dog in the crate for an extended period of time. Crate-bound dogs don’t get enough exercise or human interaction, and they may become depressed or anxious. To reduce the amount of time your dog spends in the crate each day, you may need to rearrange your schedule, hire a pet sitter, or enroll your dog in a daycare facility. Crates aren’t the only tool at your disposal. You can use a tether in your bedroom to keep a puppy from chewing on things or having an accident while you’re sleeping. They’ll be free to move around in a small space but won’t be able to wander off while you’re sleeping.
  • Puppies under the age of six months should not be left alone in a crate for more than three to four hours at a time. They can’t keep their bladders or bowels under control for that long. Adult dogs that have been housetrained are in the same boat.
  • Crate your dog until he or she can be left alone in the house without causing any accidents or destructive behavior. You can progress your dog from a crate to an enclosed area of your home, such as the kitchen, before allowing them to have full access to the house while you’re away.
  • A comfortable bed should always be in the crate, and the door should be left open when you’re home so your dog can enter it when they need a safe place. This is also a sign that your dog requires some alone time. Children and visitors should be taught to leave your dog alone if he or she enters their crate.
  • A crate can be your dog’s den, but just as you wouldn’t spend your entire life in one room of your house, neither should your dog.

Choosing crates

There are several types of crates available:

  • Plastic materials (often called “flight kennels”)
  • Fabric on a rigid, collapsible frame
  • Metal, collapsible pens

Crates are available in a variety of sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores or online. Some of them can be adjusted as your dog grows, which is great for puppies.

Your dog should be able to stand up and turn around inside the crate. Choose a crate size that will accommodate your dog’s adult size if he or she is still growing. Crates may be available for rent at your local animal shelter. You can rent a crate until your puppy is old enough to move up to the right size, at which point you can buy a permanent crate.

The process of training

Depending on your dog’s age, temperament, and previous experience, crate training can take days or weeks. When crate training, two things should be kept in mind: the crate should always be associated with something pleasant, and training should be done in small steps. Don’t go too quickly.

Step 1: Show your dog how to use the crate.

Place the crate in a family room or other area of the house where the family spends a lot of time. In the crate, put a soft blanket or a bed. Take the door or prop it open to allow the dog to explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and will immediately begin sleeping in the crate. If yours isn’t one of them, here’s what you should do.

  • Bring them over to the crate and speak to them in a cheerful manner. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so it doesn’t hit or frighten your dog.
  • Drop some small food treats near the crate door, then just inside the door, and finally all the way inside the crate to encourage your dog to enter. It’s fine if they don’t want to go all the way in at first; don’t enter them.
  • Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog enters the crate calmly and walks all the way to the food. If treats aren’t appealing, try putting a favorite toy in the crate. This step could take as little as a few minutes or as long as a few days.

Step 2: Feed your dog in the crate.

Begin feeding your dog’s regular meals near the crate after introducing them to it. This will help you form a positive association with the crate.

  • If your dog enters the crate easily, place the food dish or interactive puzzle toy stuffed with food all the way to the back of the crate when you begin Step 2.
  • If they still refuse to enter, only put the dish inside as far as they can go without becoming fearful or anxious. Place the dish a little further back in the crate each time you feed them.
  • Close the door while your dog is eating their meal once they are standing comfortably in the crate. The door is open as soon as they finish their meal the first time you do this. Leave the door closed for a few minutes longer after each feeding, until they’re staying in the crate for about 10 minutes after eating.
  • If they start whining to go outside, you may have increased the time limit too quickly. Try leaving them in the crate for a shorter period of time next time.

Step 3: Play around with longer crating times.

You can confine your dog to the crate for short periods of time while you’re home, after they’ve been eating their regular meals there with no signs of fear or anxiety.

  • Bring them to the crate and give them a treat.
  • Use a voice cue to enter them in, such as “crate.” With a treat in your hand, point to the inside of the crate to encourage them.
  • Praise your dog as soon as he or she enters the crate, then give them the treat and close the door.
  • Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes, then leave for a few minutes in another room. return to the time, sit quietly for a few moments, and then let them out.
  • Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you’re away from them.
  • Once your dog can sit quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can leave them there for short periods of time and/or let them sleep there at night. This could take a few days or weeks.

Step 4, Part A: When you leave, crate your dog.

You can start leaving your dog in the crate for short periods when you leave the house. Once they can spend about 30 minutes in there without becoming anxious or afraid,

  • Use your regular command and a treat to place them in the crate. You might also want to leave a few safe toys in the crate for them to play with.
  • Change the time you put your dog in the crate during your “getting ready to leave” routine. Although they shouldn’t be crated for an extended period of time before leaving, you can do so anywhere between five and 20 minutes before leaving.
  • Make your departures matter-of-fact rather than emotional and lengthy. Briefly praise your dog, then reward them with a treat for entering the crate.

When you get home, don’t reward your dog for being excited by responding enthusiastically to them. To avoid increasing their anxiety about when you’ll return, keep arrivals low-key. When you’re at home, crate your dog for short periods of time so they don’t associate crate time with being left alone.

Part B of Step 4 is to crate your dog at night.

Using your regular command and a treat, put your dog in the crate. Initially, especially if you have a puppy, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or a nearby hallway. Puppies frequently need to go outside to eliminate in the middle of the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy whine for you to let them out. Older dogs should be kept close by at first to avoid associating the crate with social isolation.

Once your dog is sleeping well through the night with the crate near you, you can slowly move it to where you want it. However, any time you spend with your dog, even when he or she is sleeping, is a chance to get closer to your pet.

Issues that could arise

Whining: It can be difficult to tell whether your dog is whining to be let out of the crate or if they need to go outside to eliminate if they whine or cry while in the crate at night. If you’ve followed the training procedures outlined above, your dog hasn’t previously been rewarded for whining by being let out of its crate. Try to ignore the whining if this is the case. If your dog is just putting you to the test, he or she will most likely stop whining soon. Never scold them for whining.

If the whining persists after you’ve ignored them for a few minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate themselves. Take them outside if they respond positively and become excited. This is supposed to be a time trip, not a fun trip. Wait in a location in your yard where they usually go to the bathroom. If you believe your dog does not eliminate completely, the best course of action is to ignore them until they stop whining. You’ll be less likely to run into this problem if you’ve progressed slowly through the training steps and haven’t done too much too soon. You may need to restart the crate training process if the problem becomes unmanageable.

Separation anxiety: Using the crate as a separation anxiety remedy will not solve the problem. While a crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, they may injure themselves attempting to escape. Separation anxiety can never be overcome without counterconditioning and desensitization procedures. You might want to seek advice from a professional animal behaviorist.




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